People who know me would tell you that it's hard to tell which I like more: gardening or cooking. I'd say it depends on which I'm doing at the moment. Anyway, French cooking and French gardening go hand in hand. For me, cooking is an on-going adventure. Join me here on my culinary explorations, where I share with you both my old favorites as well as new inspirations. It's my fondest wish that these recipes serve as a springboard for your own new creations.
12/10/2009
Fall apple sourdough starter (Levain aux pommes)
Ingredients:
1 c. unbleached flour
3/4 c. fermented fresh organic apple juice*
More flour and water for progressive "feedings" of the starter
*See below.
The creation of a sourdough starter with sufficient punch to raise your bread and excellent flavor to boot is often a frustrating experience. I should know: I've been "accompanying" my son Jesse, long distance, as he has tried repeatedly to capture the right mix of wild yeasts and bacteria that go to make a successful starter. I just discovered a fantastic and seemingly foolproof way to make a powerful starter that is ready to use in 2 days, as opposed to several weeks.
The only catch is that you need a centrifugal juicer--or access to one (check around with your friends). I discovered this method almost by accident. I had a plastic Evian bottle half-filled with home-made apple juice that I'd forgotten in the refrigerator for about 3 weeks. Needless to say, it had fermented. When I uncapped it, it bubbled and fizzed and smelled pleasantly alcoholic (hard cider). I was in the process of pouring it down the sink when I stopped myself. The sourdough idea had dawned on me. Wouldn't this fermented raw apple juice be rich in just the sort of wild yeasts and lactic bacteria that go to make a great starter?
So I mixed 3/4 c. of the juice with 1 c. flour, covered the bowl with plastic wrap, and sat back to see what would happen. This suspense is part of what I love about all fermentations. Well, within a few hours, bubbles were appearing on the surface--an event that usually takes days if you begin a starter with water. The next morning, it was very bubbly and I gave it its first feeding with 1/2 c. flour and 3/4 of that half cup of water (maintaining the same 3/4:1 proportion of liquid to flour). That was only the day before yesterday!! I kept feeding the starter 2-3 times a day in the same proportions, before using some of it to make bread dough today. The first loaf just came out of the oven and it is spectacular. Plus, the perfume of the loaf is heavenly.
If you want to reproduce this starter, juice some organic apples in a centrifugal juicer. Half fill a recycled plastic bottle with the juice and forget it in the refrigerator for about 3 weeks. When you open it, it should look bubbly and smell alcoholic (not like vinegar). If it does, proceed as above.
The starter is ready to use once it looks very frothy just 3-4 hours after you feed it. Always refresh your starter by feeding it (repeatedly if necessary) to bring it to a highly active, frothy state. Then use as directed in your favorite sourdough recipe. I use Nancy Silverton's basic recipe, without the wheatgerm, and with a little less flour than she recommends. (I stop adding flour as soon as I no longer need it to knead.) I adjust the salt downward slightly to compensate for the diminished flour (4 tsp. instead of 4 1/2 tsp.). I also use much shorter rising times than she recommends. Practice over decades has taught me that sourdough breads are much better tasting and higher rising if baked slightly underproofed. Don't wait for them to double in bulk before baking.
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Products of Interest:
Banneton (round) for dough proofing
Banneton (long) for bread dough proofing
Provençal jaspé salad bowl
Normandy apple basket
Provençal daubière