People who know me would tell you that it's hard to tell which I like more: gardening or cooking. I'd say it depends on which I'm doing at the moment. Anyway, French cooking and French gardening go hand in hand. For me, cooking is an on-going adventure. Join me here on my culinary explorations, where I share with you both my old favorites as well as new inspirations. It's my fondest wish that these recipes serve as a springboard for your own new creations.
03/28/2007
Provençal beef paupiettes (Alouettes sans têtes)
Ingredients:
For 4 servings of two paupiettes per person:
8 thin scallops of beef approximately 8" long x 5-6" wide (about 2 lbs. total), flattened slightly
8 tsp. Dijon mustard
8 heaping T. chopped parsley
8 garlic cloves, halved, degermed if not very fresh
2 1/3" thick slices slab bacon, diced 1/2"
16 black olives, pitted and roughly chopped
2 T. extra virgin olive oil
2 medium carrots, finely diced
2 medium onions, chopped
1 bouquet garni of 6 parsley sprigs, 2 bay leaves, 8 leafy thyme branches, 2 leafy celery sprigs
1 T. tomato concentrate (in tube in Italian groceries)
2 T. flour
1/4 c. eau de vie or cognac(optional)
1 c. dry white wine
3-4 c. beef stock
8 2 1/2 foot lengths of kitchen twine
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
2 T. additional chopped parsley
Make the paupiettes: Spread each scallop with the mustard. Near the wider end, place the halved garlic, cut side down, lengthwise. Add the bacon dice (about 2 heaping tablespoons per paupiette), two chopped olives, and 2 heaping tablespoons chopped parsley. Starting near this filling, at the wider end, roll up the meat snugly around the filling. Beyond the filling at one end, tie a loop around the meat with the twine. Wrap around the paupiette in a spiral to the other end, cinching securely beyond the filling at the other end, then spiral back down to the first end, and tie to the end of the twine from the first knot. Trim any excess.
Heat the oil in a poêlon (heavy clay skillet) if you have one, or in another heavy skillet or dutch oven you can fit with a lid.
Brown the paupiettes on all sides and remove to a plate. Add the chopped onion and carrot along with a healthy pinch of salt and cook, stirring until softened (about 5 minutes). Add the tomato concentrate and cook until slightly charry. Return the paupiettes to the pan, sprinkle with the flour, and stir about gently until flour is no longer visible. Remove from heat. Sprinkle with the eau de vie or cognac (if using) and ignite. Turn the paupiettes in the flames until they are extinguished. Return to low heat and deglaze with the wine. Bring to a boil. Add 3 cups of stock and stir gently. Bring to a simmer and reduce heat the lowest possible setting. Cover (use another lid or plate if using the poêlon and simmer, turning the paupiettes occasionally in the sauce, until very tender when pierced with a knife. This can take up to 3 hours depending on the cut of beef used for the scallops. Adjust the seasoning, remove the bouquet garni, and delicately snip and remove the twine. Sprinkle with the parsley, and serve immediately. Excellent with mashed potatoes or potato-broccoli puree with mustard.
Note: Variations on this homey recipe are common throughout France and even in other parts of Europe. In the north of France, the dish is made with veal instead of beef. Here, the flavors are distinctly Provençal. "Alouettes sans têtes" means "doves without heads." In Provence, all manner of small birds were once trapped and eaten, as people were so poor. The paupiettes resemble small birds without heads.
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Products of Interest:
Provençal poêlon
Diable
Antique French pillow--rose
Provençal jaspé salad bowl