This week's French Garden recipe

People who know me would tell you that it's hard to tell which I like more: gardening or cooking. I'd say it depends on which I'm doing at the moment. Anyway, French cooking and French gardening go hand in hand. For me, cooking is an on-going adventure. Join me here on my culinary explorations, where I share with you both my old favorites as well as new inspirations. It's my fondest wish that these recipes serve as a springboard for your own new creations.

10/09/2007
Classic cardoon gratin (Gratin de cardons)   Clay pot 

Ingredients:

To serve 4-6:
1-2 bunches fresh cardoon (approx. 3 lbs.)
3 T. vinegar
Juice of 1 lemon
2 T. + 3 T flour
2 1/2 T. + 2 T butter
3 salt-packed anchovies (optional)
2 1/2 c. veal or vegetable stock
2 c.  breadcrumbs from stale but not dry bread
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Dilute the vinegar in a bowl of water.  Wear gloves to protect your hands from staining. Cut the base of the cardoon so you can separate the leaves.   Remove any that are hard or damaged.  Remove the leaves from their stems and discard.  Thinly pare the skins of the cardoon stems, cut them into 2-3-inch sections and drop them into the acidulated water.  Mix the 2 tablespoons of flour with a bit of water to make a smooth paste, the dilute in a 4 quart casserole of water.  Add salt and pepper and bring to a boil.  Dump in the cardoons, return to a boil, and cook partly covered over medium heat until tender (about 30-45 minutes).  Drain and dry on a kitchen towel.  Butter a gratin dish and put the cardoons in it.

A classic Provençal cardoon gratin is always seasoned with  anchovies.  Even if you think you don't like anchovies, try to include them.  I promise that treated this way, they in no way taste fishy.  They simply add a seasoning depth to the dish.  With your fingers, rinse the anchovies, and remove the backbone and any guts.  Don't worry about tiny bones.  Soak them in cold water for at least fifteen minutes.  Squeeze dry in a paper towel.

Melt the butter over low heat in a medium saucepan.  Add the anchovies if using and mash them with a wooden spoon until they disintegrate in the butter.  Add the 3 T. flour and stir until smooth.  Cook slowly for a couple of minutes.  Heat the stock and slowly whisk it into the butter mixture.  Bring to a boil and cook gently for 10-15 minutes.  Season with salt and pepper.

Preheat the oven to 375° F.  Pour the sauce over the cardoons in the gratin dish.  Bake for 20 minutes.  Meanwhile, melt the remaining butter and mix it with the breadcrumbs.  Put the crumbs to toast in the oven for 10 minutes, until barely golden.  Then spread them over the gratin and continue baking it for another 20 minutes or until the top is deeply brown.  Serve immediately.

Note:  This classic cardoon gratin is a traditional part of the Provençal Christmas Eve feast.  You can find fresh cardoons in Italian and Middle Eastern markets.  Or--much more fun--grow your own!

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Products of Interest:
Provençal gratin dish
Cardoon 'Plein Blanc Inerme'

Try some of our past French garden recipes:

Appetizers and small dishes

Basics

Beef, pork, lamb, and veal