People who know me would tell you that it's hard to tell which I like more: gardening or cooking. I'd say it depends on which I'm doing at the moment. Anyway, French cooking and French gardening go hand in hand. For me, cooking is an on-going adventure. Join me here on my culinary explorations, where I share with you both my old favorites as well as new inspirations. It's my fondest wish that these recipes serve as a springboard for your own new creations.
02/17/2010
Pork shoulder braised with fennel and blood orange 
Clay pot
Ingredients:
A 2-lb. pork shoulder or blade end roast, boned and tied up. Reserve the bone if possible; it will add flavor to the sauce.
1 T. coarse sea salt
1/2 T black peppercorns
1 tsp. fennel seed, black if possible
Grated zest of one organic blood or other orange
Strong pinch Turkish or Aleppo pepper
2 heads fennel
2 T. extra virgin olive oil
2 tsp. sugar
1/2 c. dry white wine
1-2 c. pork, veal, or chicken stock
2 tsp. Sardinian abbamele or neutral honey
Zest of one additional blood orange; juice of 2 blood (or other) oranges; 2 blood or other oranges sectioned.
1 T. extra virgin olive oil + 1 T. sugar
For "gremolata": The above orange zest, 2 T. roughly chopped wild fennel greens (or chervil), 5 oil-packed black olives, drained on paper towel, pitted, and roughly chopped.
In a mortar, pound together the salt, peppercorns, and fennel seed until ground. Stir in the grated orange zest and Turkish or Aleppo red pepper. Rub this mixture all over the roast and set aside. This step may be done as much as 18 hours in advance, and the roast held in a cool place.
Heat 1 T. olive oil in a heavy skillet big enough to accommodate the roast, and its bone, if reserved. Brown over medium-high heat on all sides. Remove to a clay pot or roaster, with lid if possible. Meanwhile, bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Wash and trim the fennel bulbs, and cut them into quarters, sixths, or eighths, depending on their size, including a bit of the core in each piece. Cook them in the salted water until barely tender. Drain and reserve.
Pour the fat out of the skillet and add the remaining olive oil. Heat over medium eat. Add the fennel and sprinkle with the sugar. Saute until lightly golden. Use a slotted spoon to remove the fennel to around the roast in the clay pot.
Preheat the oven to 400 F. Deglaze the skillet with the wine, turn the heat to high, and reduce to a syrup. Add the stock and reserved orange juice, boil gently for 3-5 minutes. Add the abbamele or honey. Pour over the contents of the clay pot. Cover with the lid, if you have one. If not, cover first with a large sheet of crumpled, wet parchment, and then with foil. Place the dish in the oven, and reduce to 320 degrees after 5 minutes. Roast for approximately 2-3 hours, or until the meat is very tender, turning it in its juices from time to time.
Drain off the juices into a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. (Cover and keep the roast and fennel warm.) Reduce the sauce until it has a bit of body (lightly coats a spoon). Drain the juice from the sectioned oranges (and drink it). Heat the remaining tablespoon olive oil in a small skillet, add the orange sections, and sprinkle with the 1 T. sugar. Cook over medium heat until lightly glazed. Pour the sauce over the oranges, stir gently, correct the seasoning with salt and/or abbamele or honey if necessary. Transfer to a sauce boat.
Finely chop together the orange zest, black olives, and fennel greens or chervil. Garnish the roast and serve directly from the baking dish, passing the sauce on the side. Serve with polenta.
Note: Pork shoulder or blade end roast are deeply flavorful and succulent cuts which are also very inexpensive. Make sure to use organic pork for this and all my pork recipes, though. This is a bright and succulent dish for midwinter.
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