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June 13 - The Unsung Muse of Istanbul May 02 - Potager passion 2013 January 30 - Wounds and Wildflowers September 27 - Coq Story March 29 - The joyous lavender farmer March 27 - Consulting the oracle February 15 - Abdullah's olives November 10 - The living willow fence--one year later October 25 - Ode to crème fraîche September 08 - Le Grand Mechoui at Revest-des-Brousses May 10 - An island of serenity March 23 - Blood and guts February 10 - Birdie! January 13 - Planting a living fence November 25 - The clay connection June 09 - Bee story April 21 - Of dandelions and Camembert March 12 - The secret shops of the Palais Royale. February 01 - The pleasures of winter September 30 - Pigeon September 10 - Health care à la française June 11 - La Ferme aux Escargots June 04 - Nest of flowers April 10 - Potager passion March 25 - Pépette II--The sequel January 27 - Meditations on mustard January 14 - Provence wears it well...snow, that is. November 20 - Our part-time dog November 11 - A new university for the 21st century October 14 - Mushroom madness September 04 - Road trip with Paula Wolfert June 18 - The Pottery of Sampigny June 02 - Le Temps des Cerises May 20 - It's that intoxicating time again... April 23 - Where la vigne is queen March 27 - The joys of la cueillette February 14 - Bringing in the blue January 16 - Bonne année 2008! November 07 - Fire at the heart of the home October 19 - Manna from heaven... September 19 - My neighbor's lamb July 26 - The way to a woman's heart... June 18 - Guinée rocks the rue de Logelbach May 15 - A passion for farigoule April 16 - Sowing the seeds of content April 04 - Bruno's world March 14 - Putting down roots February 14 - La Fête de la Truffe December 20 - An olive branch November 30 - Happiness is a hot chestnut. October 31 - Uncovering the soul of a mas October 02 - High horsepower September 21 - The magic of Moustiers June 21 - The cencibelles of Cliousclat May 22 - In possession of a potager... April 26 - A spring morning amble through Aix-en-Provence March 20 - The staff of life en pays Berbère March 08 - Why I love my quincaillerie February 22 - Le pays de Forcalquier February 14 - Valentine surprise in Verona February 06 - La Truffe December 20 - 12/20/2005. La Source December 01 - 12/01/2005. The pool at the Club Waou November 26 - 11/26/2005. Fall Trilogy III--Le Chemin de Randonnée November 23 - 11/23/2005. Fall trilogy II November 21 - 11/21/2005. Fall Trilogy I November 15 - 11/15/2005. Jammin' November 09 - 11/09/2005. Civil unrest in France October 31 - 10/31/2005. Flu season October 10 - 10/10/2005. Our own little piece of Provence October 04 - 10/04/2005. China--a window on the future? July 26 - 7/26/2005. Elegy for a potager July 07 - 7/7/2005. La Bonne Etape June 27 - 6/27/2005. Our royal tourne-broche June 22 - 6/22/2005. La dermite des prés June 13 - 6/13/2005. A spring foray in the Pyrenees May 16 - 5/16/2005. Lights, camera, action! April 28 - 4/28/2005. April in Paris April 06 - 4/6/2005. Vinegar porn March 06 - 3/6/2005. The miraculous monarch February 16 - 2/16/2005. Valise de rêve December 15 - 12/15/2004. Diversity for all December 09 - 12/9/2004. Fécamp--Destination gourmande November 24 - L'Ostau de Baumanière November 16 - Rice, bulls, and gypsy caravans November 15 - 11/15/2004. And the winner is... October 27 - 10/27/2004. Lunch heaven October 13 - 10/13/2004. Oh-so-French pharmacies October 05 - 10/5/2004. Vézelay--la colline éternelle September 07 - 9/7/2004. Where in the world... July 15 - 7/15/2004. Road trip through Auvergne June 02 - 6/2/2004. La fête du pain normand April 26 - 4/26/2004. A sun-drenched weekend in Collioure April 14 - 4/14/2004. Denis' Easter card April 01 - Lights, camera, action! March 29 - My life as an enzyme March 18 - Life in a food-crazed nation March 05 - Marabout February 26 - Tale of two towers February 23 - La Fête des Violettes February 05 - My precious levain January 28 - Surviving the salon January 13 - La Poste and I December 01 - Home alone November 19 - Those dirty French! November 03 - Three years at 10 rue de Logelbach October 20 - A Paris weekend September 16 - Paris on wheels September 03 - The sleepy magic of the marais Poitevin July 29 - Dejeuner sur la (mauvaise) herbe July 23 - Blue is the color... July 10 - My famous hat June 10 - 06/10/2003. Dr. Death and the Giant Lobster June 04 - 6/4/2003. Summer in a skillet May 13 - 5/12/2003. Oysters for Breakfast. April 29 - 4/29/2003 Dateline Dakar March 27 - 3/27/2003. Le Moulin d'Arbalète March 17 - 3/17/2003. A spring day in the Pays de Caux February 26 - 2/26/2003. Residents of Nice take to the streets... February 14 - Some winter violets for turbulent times February 03 - Ramblings on the week's news from l'Hôtel de Ville January 20 - The mother of all vinegars January 07 - "Brrrrr...Il fait froid!" December 11 - La crise de foie November 20 - War of the waters November 13 - The weekend of three tails October 30 - Gender issues September 18 - Figs, green walnuts, and pêches de vigne September 18 - La rentrée August 01 - Paris in August July 25 - The Gymnase Club July 15 - French ads June 27 - Sojourn to Ardèche May 23 - France ushers in spring with muguet des bois. May 23 - The Concours Lépine--or the French at their most eccentric April 19 - Going to the polls in Paris April 08 - The bounty of Belleville March 28 - First the poubelle, now the tri... March 15 - For women only March 07 - French Country comes to Paris February 21 - Paris underground February 15 - Everything's on soldes! January 31 - A breath of spring January 25 - Paris...the soul of discretion January 16 - Winter rolling toward spring January 03 - Bonne Année!! December 10 - Christmas roses November 28 - Wild mushroom season in Paris November 16 - Leaving home November 06 - The Camondo cuisine October 23 - Paris, Post-September 11 October 17 - 10/17/2001. Paris Mayor Says NO to Doggie Turds October 05 - 10/05/2001. What am I doing here? October 05 - Why I love my butcher October 04 - A dog's life in Paris.

This Week's Postcard

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Gender issues

Last month Denis and I were on the dessert course in an intimate corner of the dining room of the Vieux Logis, an extremely charming hotel in the Périgord village of Tremolat. It was late, and only one other dining couple lingered in our nook. They were engaged in earnest conversation with the waiter about the seemingly endless and delicious dishes that had been served throughout the course of the dinner. Madame was in the midst of discussing a sauce when she stumbled over the correct article (le or la) to use with the word coriandre.

I couldn't believe my ears, because this was the second time I had seen a French person unsure of whether the world coriandre was masculine or feminine. The other was my friend Aleth, who admitted it was feminine, but impetuously continues to treat it as masculine. "I don't know why, but for me, coriandre is notfeminine," she declared heatedly. Such a hotheaded, devil-may-care attitude is hardly characteristic of the more general French attitude toward their language, whose tortuous vicissitudes they prefer to treat with hushed deference and obey unquestioningly.

In this case, the waiter, believing it to be la coriandre, but not wanting to seem didactic with his customer, rushed to the kitchen and swept back out in a rush, holding in his arms as reverentially as a luscious pièce de résistance, a large dictionary.

At this point, I was in heaven, because two of my favorite topics--food and language--were being debated. "Only in France..." I breathed to myself in delight, would a waiter come out of the kitchen with a dictionary.

Of course, the waiter was right. La coriandre it is, always has been, and probably always will be, knowing the ultimate conservatism of the French when it comes to their mother tongue. The conversation went on to discuss the gender of millefeuilles, that classic French pastry consisting of a layer of custardy pastry cream sandwiched between layers of puff pastry. The name of the pastry translates as thousand layers (mille=thousand; feuilles=leaves, layers, pages). Now, mille is masculine, and feuilles is feminine. What, then, is the gender of the composite noun millefeuilles? That was the question of the hour. By this time we had joined the conversation.

Anglo logic would have you think like this: since mille is an adjective modifying feuilles, the noun, the gender of the compound noun should follow the gender of the noun, feuilles. Right?

Wrong! There is nothing logical about the French language, never mind that Descartes was supposedly the father of logic. Although feuilles is feminine, millefeuilles is masculin. (Go figure.) And, it does not have a hyphen (also discussed at the dinner table).

French is a notoriously difficult language. French students are always moaning about the intricacies of conjugating all 15 French verb tenses. But in reality, only around 3 or 4 of those tenses are used in everyday language, so it's not so bad. However, there's no way of skirting the gender issue. Sadly for us neuter-speaking Angloids, every French noun is either feminine or masculine, and all adjectives have corresponding feminine and masculine forms. The gender of the adjective must agree with the gender of the noun or pronoun it is modifying.

The bitter truth is that those of those with English for a mother tongue are faced with numerous split-second gender decisions every time we open our mouths to speak even a single sentence. The effect can be paralyzing, as in when you spend so much time rehearsing your sentence in your mind to make sure that you've remembered all the correct gender forms, that by the time you open your mouth to speak, your interlocutor has up and gone 5 minutes ago.

The gender of French nouns defies any logic, making it terribly difficult to learn. I'll give you the best example of just how illogical all this gender stuff is by talking real gender words. What do you think is the gender of the French word (identical to the English) for the male sex organ? Surprise! It's male. Now, what about the gender of the female sex organ? Male. Gotcha! How about sein, the French word for "breast" ? Male again. See what I mean? I don't know about you, but I'm sure that whoever thought up all this gender stuff wasn't a woman.

In fact, you don't really learn French word genders, you just sort of memorize them as you go along, bit by painful bit, until you don't have to think about it any more. In fact, in my case, I memorize the correct sound, more than anything. After you repeat it the right way often enough, the wrong way just sounds wrong. But that doesn't prevent me from messing up many times each day, as I try out new words or get flustered or tired, both circumstances which instantly diminish my capacity for remembering correct word gender.

Even though I have an above-average aptitude for language, I'm not sure I'll ever lick the gender issue. Jane Birkin, the English wife of the much-loved (now deceased) French singer Serge Gainsbourg, has lived in France for over 30 years and speaks French--well, not quite fluently. Ms. Birkin is famous here for (among other things) still messing up her word genders after all this time. That's the bad news. The good news is that the French love her for it. And when I'm tired or flustered, a little indulgence is just what I need. Oh Lord, please don't let me be misunderstood!

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About Paris Postcard
Here's where I share the frustrations, humor, and sometimes almost heartbreaking beauty of daily life from the perspective of an American expatriate living in Paris. I'm writing to you exactly as I write to my family and friends, so what you read here is usually not about gardening. Rather, these weekly postcards are a way for you to get to know me, and I hope, to occasionally laugh out loud--both with me, and sometimes at me. Barbara Wilde
   
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