Marqueyssac

An Italianate garden transformed by the gentle spirit of the Périgord.

10/01/2002
Marqueyssac
Perched on a steep hill overlooking the Dordogne, the placid, gently sinuous river of the Périgord, the gardens of Marqueyssac would be spectacular for their situation alone. Views on all sides are breathtaking, whether toward the massive, forbidding silhouette of the fortress of Castelnaud on the other side of the river; in the direction of the gentler aspect of the château de Fayrac; or from the promontory of the Belvédère toward the picturesque Roman chapel of Saint-Julien de Cénac.

Yet Marqueyssac would be one of the loveliest gardens I've visited in France even without its splendid location. In fact, I'm amazed at the extent to which Marqueyssac captured my heart, because I was prepared to dislike it. Why should any garden be the object of such an unfair prejudice on my part? For one thing, Marqueyssac consists of basically one plant: boxwood, with a few Italian cypress and drifts of wild cyclamen (in bloom last wekend) at their feet. And I remain sufficiently rooted in the Anglo-Saxon gardening tradition to find most gardens without flowering plants a bore. I like lots of diversity and often, a sense of abandon, with plants allowed to assume natural forms.

What a surprise, then, to fall in love with a garden that consists almost exclusively of carefully clipped boxwood! The major reason I was smitten was the unusual way the more than 150,000 boxwoods of the property are pruned. While pruned boxwood is usually synonymous with rigid, symmetric, geometric forms, those of Marqueyssac are sculpted into organic, abstract undulating forms that suggest gentleness, suppleness, and unity with the landscape. The only geometric plant forms on the entire property consisting of nearly 50 acres and almost 4 miles of paths are in the terrace d'honneur near the château itself, where they serve as a link between the buildings and the landscape beyond.

The gardens of Marqueyssac are incredibly romantic, which may come as a surprise to those of you who, like I, inevitably link romance with flowers. The forms of the boxwoods are sensual, and the many stone paths invite you to lose yourself among them. Near the center of the main gardens, a serpentine river of green rosemary and silver santolina entices you to explore their periphery.

The astonishing work of caring for this immense property is accomplished by a crew of only 4 permanent gardeners. All pruning is done by hand, with manual shears, with two major passes annually and of course maintenance in between. Some of the box is on such steep slopes that one wonders if the gardeners also have mountaineering skills.

The outer reaches of the property comprise majestic natural woods of oak, wild dwarf holly, chestnut, and other species, but there are always some pruned boxwoods along the path, even clinging precipitously to the cliffside, to provide continuity with the rest of the garden. The paths are punctuated with excellent signage, identifying plant species, natural rock formations, and bird species in the best sense of 19th century natural history. Children will never be bored, as they will find hollow trees, a playground, and inviting treehouses interspersed along the way for their enjoyment and exploration.

Marqueyssac is a garden that emphasizes the harmony of man and nature, whether in the benches sculpted into the natural boulders along the paths, the complementarity between the artfully and organically sculpted boxwoods and the untouched woods beyond, or in the ancient landscape of the Perigord Noir beyond, which perhaps more than any other region of France expresses the the gentle coexistence of humans and nature in the Dordogne. At Marqueyssac, you're constantly reminded of the gentle, welcoming spirit of nature, which is reflected in the sensitive and warm-spirited management of the garden itself.

Just when you're feeling a bit fagged from climbing the gentle uphill path out to the Belvédère at the far end of the property, a spacious carriage drawn by a huge, calm Percheron mare comes along the path, collecting all who feel like a gentle ride back to the entrance. Even dogs and baby carriages are welcome on board!

Les Jardins de Marqueyssac
24220 Vezac
France

Open every day in July and August from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.; in May, June, and September from 10 a.m. until 7 p.m.; from February to April and from mid-November until the end of January from 2 p.m. until 5 p.m. Note that this garden is just as beautiful in winter as in other seasons.
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Products of Interest:
Perigord nutcracker
Limoges enamel painting--Red bouquet
Limoges enamel miniature painting--House on Dordogne
Limoges enamel miniature painting--Périgord houses with poplars

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